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We will start by dismantling the 1200 Anglia gearbox down to the components which we will need. Remove the bell housing by undoing the four retaining bolts (see Photograph No 3). You will possibly need this depending on what came with your 2000E. Then remove the top cover and gear lever housing. When removing the top cover take care not to lose the 3 springs and ball bearings which locate just under the cover (Photograph No 5). If the ball bearings don\u2019t lift out, use a small magnet to lift them out and place into a storage container along with all the other nuts bolts etc, you are removing for safe storage.<\/p>\n Before the tail shaft can be removed the gear rail selectors need to be removed. The square headed lock bolts are held in position by lockwire, simply cut through the wire with side cutters, then remove bolts with either 7mm or 8mm spanner.<\/p>\n Push out the selector rods towards the rear of gearbox, noting the position of any collars and spacers that may be present. Take a photo or drawing in case you can\u2019t remember. Also remember which rail went in which hole as all three rails are different. The middle rail has a small pin in the end. This is loose, so take care not to lose it as it performs an extremely important job. Looking from the front of the gearbox, there are three holes in which the three rails went. Cross drilled between these holes are the blocker bars. These too should be recovered. They do fall out relatively easy, but they can be pushed out with a piece of wire (see Photograph Nos 7 and 8).<\/p>\n Now you can undo the five retaining bolts that hold the tailshaft on (see Photograph No 9). Care should be taken to note which holes the bolts come from as some are shorter than others. Slide tailshaft off backwards. All the components we have removed up to now, we will require in re-assembly onto the 2000E box. So now would be a good time to get them cleaned up if they are not already. The next item to remove from the 1200 box before discarding it to the spares bin, is the speedo drive wheel. The 2000E wheel is made from very brittle plastic and is rare to come across one that has all its teeth. If you are lucky enough to find one intact, then great. If not remove the steel one from the 1200 shaft by knocking back the tab washer and undoing the large nut. Before sliding it off, cup your hand underneath as there is a tiny ball bearing under it that acts as a woodruff key. Don\u2019t lose this you may need it as a spare!! Also recover the spacer collar (see Photograph No 10).<\/p>\n This is where it can all start to get a bit tricky. If you are using an early type 2000E box, you are not going to have a problem. But if you have the later type sometimes denoted by the fact it has a reversing light switch, then you will need to follow this bit very carefully.Later boxes had a larger rear bearing carrier than earlier ones. The upshot of this being you need to remove the rear bearing carrier from the 1200 box. This is needed so the 1200 tailshaft housing will fit on. With the larger bearing carrier it will not fit on. Oddly the bearings themselves are identical, it is just the housing\/carrier that is different. You should be able to prise it carefully out of the gearbox casing with two screwdrivers\/levers. The bearing is a tightish fit on the mainshaft but certainly not a force fit.<\/p>\n Well that about concludes raiding the 1200 box for the parts we need to transfer to the 2000E box. Don\u2019t throw it away, but put it to one side just in case you need to use any parts as spares.<\/p>\n Here is a list of the ratios and the vehicles to which the 2000E box is fitted.<\/p>\n * This box is not really suitable as ratio’s are almost identical to the standard 1200 box of the Anglia \/ Cortina \/ Classic.<\/p>\n It should be noted that in 1969 all gearboxes except for those used in the Mk 1 Escort range, changed to single rail gear selection. They also do not fit into an Anglia without modifying the transmission tunnel itself due to their larger size.<\/p>\n The earlier Lotus Cortina (63 to 64) gearboxes also had a very tall first gear and you will find, unless you are running a powerful engine, that pulling away from lights etc becomes a chore rather than a pleasure, due to the need to \u201cslip\u201d the clutch to avoid stalling. Also the Lotus Cortina box of 1964-66 isn\u2019t worth bothering with as the ratios are almost the same as the original 1200 Anglia. Ideally the box to have for Anglia\u2019s for road conditions is the box with the 2.972 first gear.<\/p>\n To check 100% the gearbox you intend to buy is the right one, you need to have it out of the car. Select 1st gear. Mark the input shaft and output shafts on the top with tippex or marker pen. Turning the input shaft, count exactly how many times the input shaft turns to turn the output exactly once. You should find it turns 2.972 or almost three complete turns. Always perform this check twice and you must make certain it is in first gear. If it turns 3.5 times walk away. If it turns 2.5 you\u2019ve probably found an Early Lotus box.<\/p>\n Please note: You can also use the same parts from a 1500 Cortina Box too. The gearbox mounting on the tailshaft is different, but this can be easily over come for use in an Anglia, by use of the Milton Race Preparation 2000E cross member.<\/p>\n Well that’s it for the 2000E box.<\/p>\n Please note your health may be at risk if you do not take sensible safety precautions. Never work under an unsupported vehicle, do not take shortcuts. If you feel that the task is beyond your capabilities, then employ the services of a trained professional. The Ford Anglia 105E Owners Club nor the author cannot be held responsible for any accidents or injury arising from advice given on this webpage. Safety advice can be obtained from the RoSPA. The advice and opinions given are purely those of the author and not necessarily those of the Ford Anglia 105E Owners Club.<\/span><\/p>\n<\/div>\n\n We now need to dismantle the 2000E box to the same point that we did for the 1200 box. Before proceeding, the opportunity to thoroughly clean the outside of the gearbox should be taken now to avoid any dirt getting to the internals The procedure to then dismantle the box is basically the same as carried out on the 1200, the only major difference being the gear change linkage set up. Firstly remove the gear lever (if fitted) by unscrewing the large dome. Then remove the three bolts securing the gear lever housing to the tailshaft. (See Photograph No 1)<\/p>\n Also remove the two other top covers, not forgetting any springs and ball bearings located under main housing cover. You can now undo all bolts and clamp bars and remove all the linkage to gear selectors.<\/p>\n Once you have removed all the linkage and selector rods, give the gears and all of their associated parts a thorough check over and satisfy yourself that this is a serviceable box. The gears themselves should have no teeth missing or chunks missing from them. They should also be free from heat marks and any wear should have not broken through the case hardening on the gears. If in doubt let a suitably qualified person take a look. It would also be a good opportunity to replace any bearings that need replacing. Complete dismantling is covered in the Haynes manual, but it can be a bit tricky and should really only be undertaken if you are confident, or can practice on a scrap gearbox first. Bearings are available for these boxes from various sources, BGH gears can now supply replacement gearsets, but for a price. Gasket sets for re-assembly are also available, and these should be used without fail. I prefer to use Fernox gasket sealer in addition to the new gaskets (From any reputable plumbing supplier), firstly it is a little easier to work with and secondly because it is clear in colour so looks a little tidier.To re-assembly then. In the front bearing cover (Photograph Nos 3 and 4), there is a small oil seal. So before removal, make a small tippex mark on box and cover so that this goes back on exactly how it came off. To get to this seal remove the three securing bolts.<\/p>\n It will now be possible to prise out the old seal and drift a new one carefully in (Photograph No 5 and 6).<\/p>\n I took the opportunity to change the front bearing, this is simply done by removing the large circlip, and prising the old bearing off with two screwdrivers, whilst ensuring that the shaft doesn\u2019t drop out of the syncro rings\/cones inside. It\u2019s easier than it sounds.. honest!<\/p>\n Replace the bearing cover with a new gasket ensuring that the cover goes on exactly in the correct position, as per the marks you made earlier. The reason is the oil has to flow down the small cut out in cover into a hole in the gearbox casing.<\/p>\n As mentioned in the first part, the plastic speedo drive gear rarely remains in one piece on the 2000E boxes. On the box used in this article, there was no exception. (See Photograph No 9). My plan is to use the speedo drive wheel from the 1200 box. On a 2000E box it is held in place with a circlip, arrowed and also has a ball bearing underneath acting as a woodruff key. Once you have removed the circlip (don\u2019t lose this you will need it), simply prise off the plastic gearwheel. This may take a bit of force, or carefully cut it off.<\/p>\n Ok this is where it does get a little tricky. Remember from the last article I mentioned that the later 2000E boxes had a thicker\/wider rear bearing carrier, see picture 11. In this case my box was a later version. In order to get the tailshaft housing from the Anglia 1200 box to fit, you must change the rear carrier to the Anglia 1200 one. Do not attempt to force it on it will not go. So release the rear bearing circlip, and slide the whole bearing and carrier out. It should prise out with a couple of screwdrivers. Once again you must make sure the main shaft does not drop out of the cones and syncro rings inside. You should also note that the tailshaft gasket sits under the carrier also. So clean the gasket face up, replace the gasket, then slide the Anglia 1200 bearing carrier complete with new bearing if you are changing it, back into position. Note that there is a roll pin that locates into the tailshaft on the carrier so get this approximately into the correct position.<\/p>\n See Photograph No 12 with the roll pin arrowed. Then replace the circlip.<\/p>\n If you have an earlier 2000E box, some of this last section would have been irrelevant as the bearing carrier is the same as the Anglia 1200, but you can still follow it to change the bearing and gasket. The next bit involves replacing the speedo drive wheel.With the horrible plastic broken wheel resigned to the waste bin, I wanted to use the steel Anglia one. You have to do a small piece of modifying here to use it though.<\/p>\n Retrieve the metal Anglia speedo wheel and the metal spacer collar from the parts removed from the Anglia gearbox, not forgetting the tiny ball bearing which acts as a woodruff key. If you slide all this assembly on you will notice that you cannot refit the circlip as it is about 0.5\/0.75mm out of position over the groove. All I did was to take the spacer collar and machine the correct amount off on a lathe. If you don\u2019t have access to a lathe don\u2019t worry you can carefully grind it off with a grinder. Only grind\/machine off the bare minimum so that you can replace the circlip. This will all sit correctly and your speedo needle will not jump about all over the place now. See Photograph Nos 13 and 14.<\/p>\n Warning – Always remember to take care when using power tools, and to wear the appropriate Personal Protective Equipment, such as eye protection, ear protection and a facemask.<\/span><\/p>\n Next job is to replace to the oil seal in the end of the 1200 tailshaft. Fairly simple, just prise the old one out, the drift home the new one<\/p>\n Bolt the 1200 tailshaft onto the box. The gasket should have been replaced whilst the rear bearing carrier was out. Make sure that the correct bolts are used here as some protrude inside the casing, and if a bolt that is too long is used it will hit the gears inside.You now need to replace the blocker bars (there are two) back in the cross drilled holes in-between the three front selector rod holes. A piece of wire will probably be needed and a bit of patience to do this as it is quite fiddly. It is extremely important that these are put back in.<\/p>\n Next the selector forks need to replaced into approx position, see Photograph No 17. It\u2019s fairly obvious where they go, but ensure they are sitting in their respective grooves<\/p>\n Now refit the 3 selector rods including any spacers and collars used in the original 1200 gearbox, arrowed in Photograph Nos 18 and 19<\/p>\n Don\u2019t forget the middle rail has a tiny loose bar cross-drilled in the end. This must be present as it works in conjunction with the blocker bars and stops you accidentally trying to select two gears at once, see Photograph No 19.<\/p>\n Replace the square headed locking bolts not forgetting to use locking wire. I used stainless steel welding wire, see Photograph No 20<\/p>\n Replace the gear lever housing plate, then replace gear lever, Photograph No 21. Now is a good idea to test gear selection before going any further. Each gear should be tested for ease of selection, bearing in mind the detent ball bearings and springs are not in position. But you should be able to detect any faults or any parts you have missed out.<\/p>\n Once you are happy, you can replace the ball bearings for the spring detents, then place a blob of grease in each spring locating hole in top cover. This will hold the springs in place whilst you position top cover, with a new gasket and bolt into position, Photograph Nos 22 and 23<\/p>\n If you look closely in Photograph No 23 you will see a hole to the right side of the top cover. This is where the reversing light switch normally goes. Not all Bullet 2000E boxes have this, but mine did. If you don\u2019t want to use this, then just use a very short bolt and seal it with gasket compound, ensure that the bolt does not reach the selector rod at the bottom of the hole. If like me you quite fancied the idea of reversing lights working from the gearbox then you will need to make the following modification BEFORE replacing the reverse gear selector rod. The reverse selector rod incidentally is the one on the right in picture 21, note that you can see it is in line with the reverse light switch hole.Photograph No 24 on the left shows the end of the 2000E box reverse gear selector rod. On the right of picture shows the Anglia one. As you have no choice but to use the Anglia rod you need to replicate the ramp and flat from the 2000E onto the Anglia one. I used a grinder, but if you have access to a milling machine then so much the better.<\/p>\n In Photograph No 25 my handiwork is the one on the left, not quite as neat but it does work.<\/p>\n Well that wraps this article up. I hope that if you attempt to do this you won\u2019t encounter any problems. Always have a Haynes manual or similar to hand just in case you get stuck. Another handy tool to have is one of those extending magnets you know looks like a car radio ariel with a magnet on, as even I dropped a ball bearing in the bottom of the box during this article !!!<\/p>\n Please, please work safely at all times, and if you are not sure about something ASK. Advice as always from me, The “Vanman” or the other tech advisors, phone numbers in the Who\u2019s Who at the front of the Club Magazine.<\/p>\n Article \u00a9 Copyright 2009 – the “Vanman”<\/p>\n Please note your health may be at risk if you do not take sensible safety precautions. Never work under an unsupported vehicle, do not take shortcuts. If you feel that the task is beyond your capabilities, then employ the services of a trained professional. The Ford Anglia 105E Owners Club nor the author cannot be held responsible for any accidents or injury arising from advice given on this webpage. Safety advice can be obtained from the RoSPA. The advice and opinions given are purely those of the author and not necessarily those of the Ford Anglia 105E Owners Club.<\/span><\/p>\n<\/div>\n\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":" Most of you will have heard of the infamous 2000E gearbox. Many of you may already have one in your Anglia if it is a modified. What many of you perhaps do not realise is, that it is possible to … Read More<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"parent":315,"menu_order":3,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","template":"page-fullwidth.php","meta":{"footnotes":"","_links_to":"","_links_to_target":""},"class_list":["post-507","page","type-page","status-publish","hentry"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/105eoc.paddi-graphics.uk.plesk-server.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/pages\/507","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/105eoc.paddi-graphics.uk.plesk-server.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/pages"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/105eoc.paddi-graphics.uk.plesk-server.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/page"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/105eoc.paddi-graphics.uk.plesk-server.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/105eoc.paddi-graphics.uk.plesk-server.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=507"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/105eoc.paddi-graphics.uk.plesk-server.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/pages\/507\/revisions"}],"up":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/105eoc.paddi-graphics.uk.plesk-server.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/pages\/315"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/105eoc.paddi-graphics.uk.plesk-server.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=507"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}![\"\"](\"\/images\/tech\/tech-gear03.jpg\")
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\n\n
\n Transmission<\/th>\n Gear Ratios to 1<\/th>\n Car<\/th>\n Year<\/th>\n<\/tr>\n \n <\/td>\n 1<\/td>\n 2<\/td>\n 3<\/td>\n 4<\/td>\n <\/td>\n <\/td>\n<\/tr>\n \n Standard 1200 Box<\/td>\n 3.543<\/td>\n 2.396<\/td>\n 1.412<\/td>\n 1.00<\/td>\n Anglia
\nCortina
\nClassic<\/td>\n1962-68<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n \n Ford 4 Speed<\/td>\n 2.50<\/td>\n 1.64<\/td>\n 1.23<\/td>\n 1.00<\/td>\n Lotus Cortina<\/td>\n 1963-64<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n \n All Syncro *<\/td>\n 3.543<\/td>\n 2.04<\/td>\n 1.412<\/td>\n 1.00<\/td>\n Lotus Cortina<\/td>\n 1964-66<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n \n 3 rail type<\/td>\n 2.972<\/td>\n 2.010<\/td>\n 1.397<\/td>\n 1.00<\/td>\n Lotus Cortina<\/td>\n 1966-68<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n \n selector<\/td>\n 2.972<\/td>\n 2.010<\/td>\n 1.397<\/td>\n 1.00<\/td>\n Corsair 2000E<\/td>\n 1966-68<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n \n <\/td>\n 2.972<\/td>\n 2.010<\/td>\n 1.397<\/td>\n 1.00<\/td>\n Escort Twin Cam
\nRS 1600
\nMexico<\/td>\n1968-71
\n1970
\n1970<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n\n <\/td>\n 2.972<\/td>\n 2.010<\/td>\n 1.397<\/td>\n 1.00<\/td>\n Cortina 1600 GT
\nCortina 1600E<\/td>\n1968
\n1968<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\nWarning – The Health and Safety bit<\/span><\/h3>\n
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\nMost of all don\u2019t take shortcuts. If you have any queries about this article drop me a line.<\/p>\n![\"\"](\"\/images\/tech\/tech-vanman.jpg\")
<\/p>\nWarning – The Health and Safety bit<\/span><\/h3>\n